Putting the engine back together
		The engine left half ready for the right half.
		Here I've applied the Permatex silicone form a gasket. I like this stuff because it fills voids and seals very well. I HATE oil leaks.
		The two halves together and the bolts all torqued down.  Let the engine sit for one or two days before you do anything. Let the silicone completely cure before disturbing the assemble. This will go a long way toward avoiding leaks in the future
		Two days later, engine up, pistons on.
		The oil pump is installed. Since I'm running an open belt and no chain oiler I've replaced the busy pump cover with this sleek piece from Jim's. I also ground the casting flash off the pump body and polished it
		This little bugger, the oil pump drive gear snap ring, is the biggest pain in the ass to put on due to the very tight space you have to work in. I modified a pair of snap ring pliers to do the job
		This is it. I bent it over at 90 degrees and when you click on it you'll see the notches I filed into the pins to get a positive lock on the snap ring
		Cams drive all together and ready for end play check.
		This is how I check end cam end play. The cam cover is installed and torqued down, I place a dial indicator on a magnetic stand on the frame, and then gently move the cam in and out with my hands. The factory spec is .010-.015. I found the end play to be .022 an the thrust washer was .055. I bought a .065 trust washer and that put the end play within the required specs.
		Engine left side